DIY : King Size Bed Frame Part 4 - Headboard and Finished Product

8:32 PM

It's finally time to finish this bed!!! You will see that we made a couple of mistakes, but things aren't always pretty behind the scenes. We learn as we go. Engineer Hubby will be the author of this post.

I started with a piece of 1/2" OSB for the back of the headboard, attached 2 x 4's to all four sides of the OSB (these can be scrap 2 x 4's), and then attached the front trim of the headboard to the 2 x 4's. This was the result.

Another view.

As I wanted my posts to be 3-1/2" x 3", I had to fabricate my own using 1 x 4 pine boards. Once the posts were built I secured them temporarily to the drawer receivers with bar clamps.

With the posts held in what would be their final vertical position, I could double-check that the middle section fit between the two posts. Also this ensured that the posts were plumb and were flush with the drawer receivers. I had Steph help me hold up the middle section of the headboard as I connected the posts.

Next I cut out the feet. I didn't get a picture of the finished feet connected to the headboard but the concept is the same as with the footboard. That is, a 1 x 4 is sandwiched in between the foot and the headboard post to match the 1 x 4 at the bottom of the drawer receivers.

Next the padded insert for the headboard. I cut another piece of OSB to fit inside the front trim. This piece of OSB will rest on the 2 x 4's and be framed in by the front trim.

To finish the top of the headboard I used 3/4" trim and a 1 x 4. I increased the width dimension of the 1 x 4 by 1/4" using a piece of 1/4" rectangular trim. After nailing these pieces into place I used wood filler to smooth out the rough spots.

There was a gap between the 1 x 4 and the top of the posts so I filled that in with a piece of 3/4" square trim.

Back to the padded insert of the headboard. I drilled and cut out six elongated holes and placed 1 x 2's across the holes, allowing enough space on either side of the 1 x 2 to thread a rope through the hole.

Then, on the OSB that will be used for the insert I drilled 12 holes and threaded rope (in this case we used my old snowboarding boot laces...) as shown in the following picture.

After the laces were threaded, we wrapped the front side of the insert in batting and stapled it into place. The overall thickness of the batting is about 3/8".

View from the back.

Then came the fabric. We used some inexpensive curtains from Ikea for this.

Once the headboard was painted, we took the laces of the completed insert and threaded them through the holes and around the 1 x 2's of the headboard.

View of the back with the laces pulled through and tied to the 1 x 2's.

We tucked the excess lace back into the headboard.

One thing I forgot to mention earlier is the way in which the headboard connects to the drawer receivers and storage compartment. I placed a 2 x 4 between the posts near the bottom of the headboard. The drawer receivers and storage compartment have 2 x 4's attached to each end which rest on the 2 x 4 of the headboard. I then used lag screws to secure the compartments to the 2 x 4 of the headboard.

We decided to leave the back looking like this since it will be against a wall. You could possibly use extra fabric to cover the back if you desire. The nice thing about this setup is that if you get bored with the fabric you chose for the headboard insert, all you have to do is untie the insert from the headboard, which you can then easily recover.

Here is a closeup of the finished product.

The overall dimensions of the headboard are 55" x 3" x 80".

I highly suggest that anyone who may attempt this project sketch out the bed and its components and create your own Cut/materials list. I am providing my list to be used as a "check."

Cut/materials list:

2 - 3" x 3-1/2" x 48-3/4" (post, glued pine boards)
2 - 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 36" (vertical trim on front of headboard, pine board)
2 - 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 68" (horizontal trim on front of headboard, pine board)
1 - 1/2" x 30-1/2" x 67-1/2" (headboard insert panel, OSB - thickness of OSB was actually 7/16)
2 - 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 73" (internal horizontal frame, 2 x 4 pine board)
2 - 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 29" (internal vertical frame, 2 x 4 pine board)
1 - 1/2" x 36" x 73" (back panel, OSB - thickness of OSB was actually 7/16)
1 - 3/4" x 3-3/4" x 81-7/8" ( top plate, pine board - I used pine 3-1/2 pine board and a 1/4 rectangular piece of pine to get the 3-3/4" dimension)
90" (approx.) - 3/4" x 3/4" (decorative top trim, any material type)
2 - 3/4" x 3" x3-1/2" (post bottom plate, pine board)
2 - 4" tall feet (any material)
Batting and fabric (enough to cover the headboard insert panel)
Wood screws, lag screws, washers (for the lag screws) and brad nails.

Painting and the final assembly:

We used three coats of paint and rolled it on with a foam roller. Once the paint was dried, we sealed the bed with three coats of polycrylic.

Here is the bed being assembled in its final resting place.

A shot of the feet and support blocks in action.

Finally, the finished product! Nightstand tutorial here! 

Need to see the other posts for this bed? Click below.

Stephanie & Her Engineer Hubby

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  1. holy cow! this is amazing! love love love how it turned out! just gorgeous :)

  2. This is beautiful...what was the total cost for the bed

  3. Am I right in concluding that you used a mattress but no boxspring?

  4. what is the weight limit of this bed?

  5. What??? This is crazy! Good job!!

  6. Queen Size - If you want to make a Queen size bed frame, it needs to be 16" narrower and the length stays the same. Some ideas - you could eliminate the center console or reduce the depth of the drawers 8". You would also have to reduce the headboard and footboard 16".